There seems to quite a few requests about the Red Centre travel. This Guide concerns the West MacDonnell Ranges, using Alice Springs as your starting point. It is a loop with Alice Springs as your starting and finishing point.

Places to see in Alice Springs are varied depending on your particular interest. I would highly recommend one location, the Alice Springs Desert Park on the outskirts of the township on Larapinta Drive part of the Red Centre Way. You can easily spend half a day or a full day walking though the exhibits, including several aviaries, a nocturnal house, different desert habitants, information talks, etc. So much of the plant and fauna of the Red Centre can be seen here. Worth every cent of the entry fee.

The key locations are marked on Google Maps here. You can download the map as a KML file from the link and use it on your phone or tablet. The map gives the exact location of all the turn-offs and locations described in this Guide.

Drive out of Alice Springs along Larapinta Drive past the Desert Park and the John Flynn Grave Memorial (founder of the Royal Flying Doctors Service) towards Simpsons Gap.

Important

Two locations for longer stays include Ormiston Gorge and Finke Gorge National Park. Both locations have hot showers, decent camp sites and plenty of things to do nearby.

Larapinta Walking Trail

The Larapinta Trail is walking trail 223 kilometres long, comprising 12 sections, covering much of the West Macdonell Ranges. April to August is the best time of year to walk the trail, July being peak time. The link given has comprehensive information about walks.

Camp fires are NOT permitted on the Larapinta Trail.

Many locations described here are part of the Larapinta Trail, so you can walk to most destinations. We will stay with the 4WD.

Simpsons Gap

Simpsons Gap is one of the larger gaps in the West MacDonnell Ranges. At dawn or dusk you may spot a Black-footed Rock Wallaby along the walking track or near the permanent waterhole.

There is a sign telling walkers to stay away from the rocks, this is the best location to you look for Black-footed Rock Wallabies, 9-10am is a good time to look. For part of the year, there is a Ranger Tour at 10am.

The wallabies are small and many people fail to see them. They are only about 45cm tall, so when looking focus on looking for something small. A rock near grass is often a good choice, as they like to eat from the safety of a rock with a good view.

You cannot swim in the waterhole.

Depending on how long you watch the wallabies, an hour or an hour and a half is enough time for a return walk to the car park.

Standley Chasm

Standley Chasm is commercially-owned and operated. When I visited there was a $15 entry fee, which can add up for a family. As I had seen chasms before, I decided not to visit. It is a choice.

The turn off to Namatjira Drive is not far past Standley Chasm. You turn right onto Namatjira Drive.

Roadside rest stops – Namatjira Drive

The trip starts along Larapinta Drive but later you turn off onto Namatjira Drive, the rest stops are along Namatjira Drive There are two rest stops along my suggested route, both involving a left hand turn off the main road.

Both rest stops are worth visiting as they take you up on top of the ridge giving expansive views, often 360 degrees vistas across the West MacDonnell Ranges. It is rewarding for those with mobility issues as minimal walking is involved.

While the views are good from the Namatjira Drive, they are great from the rest stop, because of the added height from being on the ridge top. Many visitors do not visit the rest stops, it is their loss.

Two locations are marked on the Map, the name I remember is the Neil Hargrave Lookout, before the Ochre Pits, the second of the roadside stops.

At both locations, if you sit still the zebra finches will fly in and drink water leaking from under the water tanks at each location. Sit quietly and you will be rewarded.

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ellery Creek Big Hole has these facilities:

• information signs;
• picnic area;
• public toilets;
• drinking water, which must
  be treated before drinking. From memory, only Ormiston Gorge has water
  that need not be treated first, but always check;
• gas barbecues;
• walking tracks;
• disability access;
• swimming; and
• camping and caravan sites.

Serpentine Gorge (also known as “Ulpma”)

Serpentine Gorge has these facilities:

• information
  signs;
• picnic area;
• public toilets; and
• walking tracks.

Camping is NOT allowed.

It is about an easy 15-20 minute mostly level walk from the parking area to the head of Serpentine Gorge. There are walks into the gorge or up onto the eastern side of the gorge. It is a strenuous walk up to the top. You must have reasonable fitness and mobility. There are many steps on the way up but you are rewarded with a spectacular view down Serpentine Gorge and a 360-degree vista of the West McDonnell Ranges. Do not stand to close to the edge, it is long way down.

There is a Lookout at the top, but you must exercise care elsewhere as the cliff edges are close to the track. The Lookout is a great location for photos, a cool drink, some fruit and a short break before walking back down. Parents must exercise extra care with curious children.

If you are fit enough, it is a must do walk and you will be rewarded for your effort. Walking times will vary depending on fitness and how many stops you make. Otherwise take a walk along the gorge floor.

Serpentine Chalet

A further eight kilometres west of Serpentine Gorge is Serpentine Chalet. Serpentine Chalet has these facilities:

• information
  signs;
• picnic area;
• historic ruins (now mostly
  foundations);
• public toilets; and
• walking tracks.

Camping is NOT allowed.

In the 1950s, trips to Serpentine Chalet took all day in a big old Blitz truck. Serpentine Chalet was where people stayed when they did tours of Ormiston and Glen Helen Gorges. Back then, all tours through the West MacDonnell Ranges were at least two days in duration, with Serpentine Chalet the overnight stop.[1]

The opening of the Glen Helen Resort saw the demise of the Serpentine Chalet in 1963.

Ochre Pits

The ochre was once used by the Arrernte People. The Ochre Pits have these facilities:

• information
  signs;
• picnic area;
• public toilets;
• gas barbecues; and
• disability access.

Because The Doc has a particular interest in colour and textures this destination had added significance. The Doc likes visiting Ochre Pits. It is an easy walk to see some of the spectacular colours nature has on offer, just add some water to see the depth of colours.

Ormiston Gorge & Waterhole

Ormiston Gorge has these activities:

• bushwalking;
• wildlife spotting;
• scenic Lookout;
• camping;
• birdwatching;
• swimming; and
• ranger guided activities.

Ormiston Gorge has these facilities:

• information signs;
• barbecues;
• café;
• drinking water;
• birdwatching;
• campsites;
• walking tracks;
• picnic area;
• ranger station – for emergency contact only;
• public toilets;
• showers; and
• disabled access.

The pick of the West MacDonnell Ranges, with a beautiful gorge, waterhole and walking tracks. The Camping Grounds are one of the top three in the Northern Territory, in my opinion. Easy to spend a few days here. There are even warm showers and a Café!

The most commonly used walking track starts on the left side of the Gorge, requiring a steep climb up onto the ridge. I walked the other way, out to the waterhole, then along Ormiston Creek bed. The path upwards is not welled marked, but I was fortunate as I saw people walking down, about 30 metres above the creek bed I saw the walking signs and began my trek up the ridge, I visited the scenic lookouts and returned arriving close near the Café for a tasty BLT roll for breakfast.

Several walks can be started at Ormiston, including overnight walks, detail here.

Glen Helen

Glen Helen has these activities:

• bushwalking;
• wildlife spotting;
• birdwatching; and
• swimming.

Additional activities exist for those staying at the Glen Helen Resort.

Glen Helen has these facilities:

• information signs;
• restaurant;
• campsites;
• caravan sites;
• accommodation;
• walking tracks;
• fuel; and
• public toilets.

Mt Sonder Lookout

The Mt Sonder Lookout is just before the Glen Helen Gorge turnoff. From this Lookout you can see Mt Zonder in the distance and when I visited it has nice wildflowers around the picnic area.

For some travellers this is where the West MacDonnell Ranges end. I recommend going back to Alice Springs by an alternate route. After Glenn Helen Gorge keep travelling west along Namatjira Drive and drive through Tyler’s Pass. The road turns a southerly direction and you will see Lookout sign on your left, the turnoff for Tyler’s Pass Lookout.

Tyler’s Pass Lookout

The turn off is signposted. It is reasonably steep drive up the hillside track to the Lookout. I had morning tea here and viewed Gosse Bluff Crater (“Tnorala”) in the distance.

The distant image of Gosse Bluff below (under Grosse Bluff images) was taken from Tyler’s Pass Lookout.

You rejoin Larapinta Drive for the trip back towards Alice Springs.

Gosse Bluff Crater (“Tnorala”)

After leaving Tyler’s Pass Lookout you drive towards the Gosse Bluff Crater turnoff, the turnoff is quite a distance away. I pulled over to the roadside as I approached Gosse Bluff, the bluff is huge even from a distance and I took the opportunity to photograph it from the roadside.

Again, the turnoff is marked and it is about an 8km drive into the middle of the crater. There is a picnic area with basic amenities, parking, toilet and walking tracks.

You CANNOT camp here, so you must allow time to move on to your camping site destination. I enjoyed the drive in and out, as it was too hot to walk in the mid-morning sun.

The forces unleashed when the meteor hit are hard to comprehend, it would have been extraordinary. Anything living within hundreds of kilometres would have been killed or affected. The dust cloud would have been seen from thousands of kilometres away. To think the meteor hit around 150 million years ago and so much evidence is still present today. The Henbury Meteorite Conservation Reserve craters are tiny in comparison, yet much better known.

Albert Namatjira’s Cottage

Once you leave Gosse Bluff Crater, you again head in an easterly direction towards Alice Springs and one destination is Albert Namatjira’s Cottage, where many of his famous outback landscapes were painted.

The signs around the Cottage are poorly maintained. When I visited the sun damage made them unreadable. It was a poor testament to such a talented and gifted Australian. Next stop Finke River Gorge National Park.

Finke Gorge National Park

Let down your tyre pressures, engage 4WD because you have a challenging 16 kilometre drive ahead if you are towing a caravan or trailer. You must be careful even if you are driving a car. The drive not suitable for a 2WD car, you will get bogged. Access is impossible if the river is in flood, as the river bed makes up much of the road.

Driving along the river bed means pebbles and sand in abundance. There are sharp twists and turns, meaning the loss of momentum is the main risk to getting stuck. So, maintain momentum.

At one point the road narrows on the western bank, make sure you are paying attention or you risk panel damage.

Towards the end of the drive you must drive up the western edge of the river bank, your car or anything being towed may dig in or nose drive when driving up the river bank (not an issue on leaving the park). You must drive fast enough to get up the bank, but slow enough not to have the nose of the car dig in. People towing have the added pressure of the car going one vertical direction and the caravan another.

I found it a great drive, but I was not towing and the water levels in the river were low.

Rain can mean you get trapped in the park, so have additional food supplies. It may be rare, but flooding has happened and you must wait for the water levels to go down.

Locate your camp site, set up and enjoy a hot shower.

Activities

These activities in Finke Gorge National Park:

• bushwalking;
• wildlife spotting;
• birdwatching; and
• swimming.

Printable Map here.

Facilities

Finke Gorge National Park has these facilities:

• information signs;
• campsites;
• caravan sites;
• walking tracks;
• showers;
• BBQs;
• picnic tables; and
• public toilets.

The two standout natural features are the natural Amphitheatre and Palm Valley.

Amphitheatre

For me the amphitheatre was an unexpected highlight of the West MacDonnell Ranges. It is an ideal sunrise location, but also a great sunset location.

Kalarranga Lookout is the place to start. It is an easy twenty minute climb with spectacular views of a rock amphitheatre encircled by rugged cliffs. I came back repeatedly to this location.

There is the longer Mpaara Walk (5km, 2 hours return) which begins at Kalarranga carpark and involves a walk around the amphitheatre.

Palm Valley

Perhaps the best-known attraction at Finke Gorge National Park. Palm Valley and the surrounding area is the only place in Central Australia where Red Cabbage Palms (Livistona mariae) survive. You can drive up the valley and park in the carpark. I parked about 2km from the car park and walked up into Palm Valley.

In Palm Valley itself, there is the Arankaia Walk (2km, 1 hour) along the valley floor. This easy walk takes you into the heart of the palms.

The longer Mpulungkinya Walk (5km, 2 hours) wander among the groves of slender palms and ultimately brings you back across the ridge to the carpark below.

4WD Track

There is an extensive 4WD track in Finke Gorge National Park. Map here.

I drove part of the track from the southern end, but I turned back after the track became more difficult around the Stockyards. Common sense prevailed, as help was some distance away, I was travelling alone and sunset was approaching. It is an option open to groups of two or more cars, but not caravans and trailers.

It is a Blue/Black trip using the TLCC’s rating system.

Historic Hermannsburg

Upon leaving Finke Gorge National Park, you turn east on Larapinta Drive (a right hand turn out of Finke Gorge National Park) and cross the Finke River Bridge and weir. In the morning it is a great place to spend half an hour enjoying the morning light. It is also the local swimming pool.

After crossing the bridge it is a short drive to the Hermannsburg turn off on your left, a township founded by Lutheran Missionaries. Fuel and basic supplies are available. There are various places to visit, but not a Sunday, as the township is closed!

Namatjira Monument

Once you leave Hermannsburg travelling east on Larapinta Drive, you drive up a small incline and on your right is Albert Namatjira’s Monument on your right. You can drive off into the carpark.

Thankfully, Albert Namatjira’s outback imagery is far more inspiring than his Monument. I was annoyed the Monument was so bland for an artist that inspired so many with his extraordinary talent, he deserves better.

Owen Springs Reserve

Travelling east on Larapinta Drive towards Alice Springs the turn off to Owen Springs Reserve is on your right (see the Map for exact location). Drive through the Reserve past the Range Station (Emergency contact point only) towards the ruins of the Old Homestead see the Map). Take a short break and tour the ruins. [Travellers short on time may drive directly back to Alice Springs along Larapinta Drive]

The Homestead was built near the creek and nearby gorge. Shortly after leaving the ruins you enter the gorge. The road narrows and you must exercise care. While the road is not rough, in parts it is narrow and like most river beds, can be bumpy.

Ultimately you reach the Sturt Highway, turn left and head in a southerly direction for about 11 kilometres. On your left will be the turn off to Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve. [If coming from Alice Springs the turnoff to the Rainbow Valley is 75 kilometres south of Alice Springs along the Stuart Highway.]

The Reserve is a further 22 kilometres on an unsealed access road.

Painted Valley Conservation Reserve

The road in can be corrugated, so adjust your driving style to suit road conditions, the drive will be rewarded.

Facilities

Rainbow Valley has limited facilities; toilets and picnic tables.

Walking and sightseeing are the main activities. The rock formations at Rainbow Valley make an ideal sunset location. The clay-pan in front of the formation is usually dry, but when it rains the visitors flood in to see the event.

There are several established well marked walks around the Reserve, down along the clay-pan, back on the hill overlooking the location. Even a walk up alongside of the rocks, where there are also some rock paintings.

Rainbow Valley is an underrated destination, I enjoyed it (I visited twice in the one trip) and was surprised how few people make the trip in. It felt like you had your own small Ayers Rock to yourself and few others.

So ends the trip

The extended West McDonnell Ranges trip is now ended, you can head back to Alice Springs or turn south towards Ulura and the Olgas.

Additional references

Travel Outback Australia here: http://traveloutbackaustralia.com/outback-destinations/west-macdonnell-national-park.html

NT Parks and Wildlife here: https://www.nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/check-park-open-alice-springs

NT Parks and Wildlife has plenty of two page prints on the parks with maps, that are very traveller friendly. Just print them out and take then with you.

EMR Travel Outback Australia here: http://traveloutbackaustralia.com/outback-destinations/east-macdonnell-ranges-2.html

---

[1] Based on: http://traveloutbackaustralia.com/serpentine-gorge-west-macdonnell-ranges.html/