{"id":3678,"date":"2014-12-18T17:31:53","date_gmt":"2014-12-18T07:31:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/?page_id=3678"},"modified":"2020-12-17T06:50:47","modified_gmt":"2020-12-16T20:50:47","slug":"learning-how-to-use-a-tilt-shift-lense","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/?page_id=3678","title":{"rendered":"Learning how to use a tilt+shift lense"},"content":{"rendered":"<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Introduction<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>This guide teaches photographers the basics on how to correctly use a tilt+shift lense (TS lense). It is not a technical article but a practical one. It is based on a Canon tilt shift lense, so slight variations may apply to other brands.<\/p>\n<p>It took me some time to properly use a TS lense and I stumbled around along the way, but knowing the basics will help you avoid those mistakes. Lense makers do a terrible job of explaining how their lenses work in the field.<\/p>\n<p>The general rule is that when the camera is in the landscape position the shift function will move the lens left or right of the centre or zero position. The tilt function will move the lenses up or down. Put another way you shift the lense left or right and tilt it up or down. Basic movements explanation in this video <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=tMnYRQbtSeY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>. Another simple video showing mostly the shift function in operation <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gvV5sINKnT8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Some tilt shift lenses allow you to rotate the shift or tilt function independently of each other, so the general rule does not always apply. For present purposes lets keep it simple, once you know the basics these other options will be easy to understand. (The Advanced Techniques at the end of the guide link a video which shows the full variations of tilt and shift.)<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Uses of a tilt+shift lense<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>If you type \u201ctilt shift\u201d into Google and look at the images you will find the images are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com.au\/search?q=tilt+shift&amp;client=palemoon&amp;rls=Palemoon:en-US&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=sjSNVMrJEJKB8gX4uIKQAw&amp;ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&amp;biw=1231&amp;bih=628\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">miniature effects<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>A tilt+shift lense is far more versatile than this gimmick. Common uses of a TS lense include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Architecture;<\/li>\n<li>Landscapes;<\/li>\n<li>Product photography; and<\/li>\n<li>Miniature effect;<\/li>\n<li>Sharpness, as TS lenses have a large sweet spot. A TS lense has a larger sweet spot than a standard prime lense, so they are very sharp lenses when used as a prime lense, without engaging the tilt or shift function. Explanation <a href=\"http:\/\/www.oopoomoo.com\/2012\/03\/seven-advantages-of-using-tilt-shift-lenses\/\">here<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i>Architecture<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>TS lenses are used frequently for indoor or outdoor architectural photos. In non-technical terms, the more you point your camera upwards the more a tall building or tree begins to \u201clean\u201d, by shifting the lense to control perspective you can prevent this, video <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=zdnRqZSko1Q\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>. A similar problem arises when you point the camera down. Again shifting a TS lense fixes the problem.<\/p>\n<p>Using a TS lense for perspective control is discussed <a href=\"http:\/\/www.cambridgeincolour.com\/tutorials\/tilt-shift-lenses1.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><b>Tip:<\/b><i> keep the <\/i><i>camera parallel <\/i><i>to the object you wish to remain vertical, for example tall buildings, trees, etc.<\/i><\/p>\n<h2 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i><b>Landscapes<\/b><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>There are many landscape uses of a TS lense, including:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Creating panoramas using the shift function. You can than stitch seamlessly the images together (most often between 2 and 5 images for simple panoramas). Shifting minimises perspective errors when stitching images without the need for a panoramic head.<\/li>\n<li>Stitching multi images allows you to create a megapixel image bigger than your camera can create with one photo.<\/li>\n<li>By using the tilt function you can have both the foreground and background in focus, without stacking multi images (aka <a href=\"http:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/GETTING-LANDSCAPES-SHARP-FOCUS-STACKING\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">focus stacking<\/a>).<\/li>\n<li>You use tilt <i>and<\/i> shift to create a megapixel panorama which has both the foreground and background in focus.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h2 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i><b>Product photography<\/b><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>TS lenses are used in a studios for product shots, for example the tilt function allows all the product to be in focus, even using large apertures like F2.8 or F3.5. In fact a landscape shot at F2.8 can be in focus, example <a href=\"http:\/\/www.luminous-landscape.com\/images-81\/\/Focusing%20the%20tilt-shift%20lens-1_img_4.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a> \u2013 the far right image.<\/p>\n<p>A TS lense opens up many depth of field options in the studio and in the field, beyond the scope of this guide, a short video <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=WLJyBlYdi5g\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i><b>Miniature effect<\/b><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>You can use a TS lense to create the miniature effect. <b>Tip:<\/b> <i>to get the best miniature effect you need to be above the subject and tilt the lenses <\/i><i>up <\/i><i>away from the subject.<\/i><\/p>\n<p>Lets learn the basics of using a TS lense.<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><b>Preliminary <\/b><b>Steps<\/b><\/span><\/h1>\n<p>You need to know how to manually focus a TS lense and how to engage the shift and tilt functions on your lense.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i><b>Learning manual focus<\/b><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>All tilt shift lenses are manual focus. So if you are not using manual focus lens you need to learn. The steps are:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Ensure that both the shift and tilt function are <i>not<\/i> engaged. The phrase I prefer to describe this is setting tilt and shift to zero or the zero position.<\/li>\n<li>Using the viewfinder begin to manually focus the lense and shoot. <b>Note<\/b>: Most, but not all, modern cameras will either beep or flash to indict the camera has been focused, even when using a manual focus lense. Check your Camera\u2019s Manual if in doubt.<\/li>\n<li>Practice until you this becomes second nature. An hour or two should do.<b> <\/b><b>Tip:<\/b> <i>Check you<\/i><i>r<\/i><i> <\/i><i>photos<\/i><i> on a <\/i><i>computer<\/i><i> to make sure you are focussing correctly and you images are sharp. <\/i><i>If they are not in focus, go back and refine your technique.<\/i><\/li>\n<li>Once you can manual focus through the viewfinder, start to use live-view. If your camera has live-view engage it and begin to focus using live-view. <b>Tip: <\/b><i>many modern cameras allow you to display a grid pattern in live view, engage it <\/i><i>and use it<\/i><i>.<\/i><\/li>\n<li>In live-view use your camera toggle switch to move the focus point. The most useful focal zones are 1\/3 up from the bottom of the screen and 1\/3 down from the top. This will make sense later. Once at the focus zone, zoom in 5x or 10x and manually focus the lense on an area of contrast \u2013 you will get better focus performance. Video example <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=BwJqHgkdfxg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>. Take practice shots until this becomes second nature. <b>Tip:<\/b> <i>Check you <\/i><i>photos<\/i><i> on a <\/i><i>computer<\/i><i> to make sure you are focussing correctly and you<\/i><i>r<\/i><i> images are sharp.<\/i><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h2 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i><b>Engaging tilt or shift<\/b><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>You may need to read the lense manual on to properly use the tilt and shift function.<\/p>\n<p>On most Canon TSE lenses there are 2 knobs for the shift function and 2 for the tilt function. The larger knob adjusts the tilt (or shift) and the second smaller knob locks the tilt (or shift) position. Play around until you understand how this works. Video <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=9TTB6hKxKzE\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>, from the 2 minute mark will help. In this video the TS Lense is in Portrait mode, not Landscape mode.<\/p>\n<p>When the tilt and shift are not engaged various terms are used such as centered, the &#8220;0&#8221; position or the zero position. I prefer the zero postilion.<\/p>\n<p>Lets start.<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Detailed steps \u2013 shift only<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>The exercise will be to take a 3 shot landscape panorama using the shift function. We will assume no knowledge.<\/p>\n<p>Attach the TS lense to your camera, then to your tripod, set camera to raw, make sure the battery is charged and the memory card is in the camera. <b>Note:<\/b> you can use jpeg but it limits your post processing options and you cannot change white balance.<\/p>\n<p>The steps are:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Zero the shift and tilt on your lense.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the lense cover.<\/li>\n<li>Set the camera to its base ISO, most often around ISO100 (Nikon ISO64). You can use base ISO when the camera is mounted on a tripod.<\/li>\n<li>Level the camera, using the camera\u2019s inbuilt level or a third party one.<\/li>\n<li>Compose your photo.<\/li>\n<li>Manually focus the lense (no tilt just yet). <b>Tip:<\/b> <i>for landscape shots when your are not using tilt, focus on something in the foreground.<\/i><\/li>\n<li>Meter the scene. The sweet spot for landscapes on a Canon 24mmTSE lense is F8 (F11 on the Canon 45mm TSE), so I mostly use that aperture. Find out what the sweet spot is on your TS lense, but some are listed at the end of this guide.<\/li>\n<li>Set the aperture to F8 in Aperture mode to determine the shutter speed needed.<\/li>\n<li>Take a test shot and look at the histogram. If everything is exposed correctly, delete the photo.<\/li>\n<li>Switch your camera to Manual Mode and enter an aperture of F8 and the enter the metered shutter speed, lets say 1\/100 of a second. <b>Note:<\/b> in camera metering will not always work accurately once you engage shift or tilt, so meter <i>before<\/i> engaging tilt or shift.<\/li>\n<li>Set your white balance. In my case using AWB has never caused an issue, but that may change between cameras, so manually set WB.<\/li>\n<li>Take all photos in a set using the same manual settings, otherwise they will not stitch seamlessly.<\/li>\n<li>Take a photo in the zero position, remember the tilt and shift are set to zero.<\/li>\n<li>Shift the lense to the left all the way, by using the knob on the lense. Take your second photo. <b>Note: <\/b>you make get some vignetting or softness in the corners by shifting all the way. So only shift all the way if the image requires it, once you have learnt the technique.<\/li>\n<li>Shift the lense to the right all the way. Take your third photo. <b>Note:<\/b> you can shift whatever way you want just keep it consistent. You can shift twice to the left and right if you wish giving you 5 photos to stitch, but we will keep it simple here.<\/li>\n<li>I often take a forth shot with my hand in front of the lense to tell me that set was a panorama.<\/li>\n<li>The photo set is complete. You only need to post process your images and stitch them together. See Stitching Software below.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Practice this without tilting the lense. Once you feel comfortable then engage tilt.<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Detailed steps \u2013 tilt and shift<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>In this guide the TS lense is in the landscape position, so when you engage tilt the lense will tilt up or down. Tilting away from the subject is what creates the miniature effect. Tilting towards the focal plane is what allows you to achieve focus on the foreground (by focusing) and background (by tilting) giving great depth of field even at large apertures like f2.8 or f3.5.<\/p>\n<p>When using tilt 3 more things come into play:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>do you tilt up or down (down for landscape, up for miniatures);<\/li>\n<li>how much do you tilt (less than what most people think);<\/li>\n<li>ensure you focus on the foreground and use tilt to focus on the background.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><b><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">The No 1 Tilt Rule is:<\/span> focus on the foreground, but use tilt to bring the background into focus. In short, focus foreground, tilt background. Focus foreground, tilt background. Focus foreground, tilt background&#8230;<\/b><\/p>\n<p>The detailed steps for shift and tilt are:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Zero the shift and tilt on your lense.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the lense cover.<\/li>\n<li>Set the camera to its base ISO, most often around ISO100 (Nikon ISO64). You can use a low ISO when the camera is mounted on a tripod.<\/li>\n<li>Level the camera, using the camera\u2019s inbuilt level or a third party one.<\/li>\n<li>Compose your photo.<\/li>\n<li>Manually focus the lense. Do not engage tilt yet, as you must meter exposure first.<\/li>\n<li>Meter the scene.<\/li>\n<li>Set the aperture to f8 in Aperture mode to determine the shutter speed needed.<\/li>\n<li>Take a test shot and look at the histogram. If everything is exposed correctly, delete the photo.<\/li>\n<li>Switch your camera to Manual Mode and enter an aperture of f8 and the enter the metered shutter speed, lest say 1\/100 of a second. <b>Note:<\/b> in camera metering will not always work accurately once you engage shift or tilt, so meter <i>before<\/i> engaging tilt or shift.<\/li>\n<li>Set your white balance. In my case using AWB has never caused an issue, but that may change between cameras, so manually set WB.<\/li>\n<li>Take all photos in a set using the same manual settings, otherwise they will not stitch seamlessly.<\/li>\n<li>Turn on live-view. <b>Note:<\/b> I nearly always use live-view when engaging tilt. Toggle the focus zone to the foreground. Focus, use 5x or 10 magnification if needed. Toggle to background and tilt the lenses down to bring the background into focus. Toggle back to foreground to ensure it is in focus, adjust if necessary. You may need to play with focus and tilt 3 times to bring both the foreground and background into focus. If you are happy&#8230;<\/li>\n<li>Take a photo.<\/li>\n<li>Shift the lense to the left, by using the knob on the lense. Take your second photo. <b>Note: <\/b>you make get some vignetting or softness in the corners by shifting all the way. So only shift all the way if the image requires it, once you have learnt the technique.<\/li>\n<li>Shift the lense to the right. Take your third photo.<\/li>\n<li>I often take a forth shot with my hand in front of the lense to tell me that set was a panorama.<\/li>\n<li>The photo set is complete. You only need to post process your images and stitch them together. See Stitching Software below.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Landscape Techniques<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>Building on what is said above, I use some simple techniques for landscape shots when using a T+S lense:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>I try to be parallel to the main subject in my photo. That way you can maximise the depth of field across the photo by the f stop used and also the tilt function. So know the sweet spot of the lens you are using and set tilt correctly;<\/li>\n<li>If possible I like to be in front of the main subject and then tilt right or left (or both) to the main subject;<\/li>\n<li>All T+S lens I have used are a bit soft on the extreme edges when fully shifted. So don&#8217;t fully shift the lense or compose your photo so you can crop this out.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Stitching software<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>Several choices are available including free options like<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/research.microsoft.com\/en-us\/um\/redmond\/groups\/ivm\/ice\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Microsoft ICE<\/a>; and<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ptgui.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">PTGui<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>I found in the early stages of learning how to use a TS lense that Photoshop would not automatically stitch my tilt shift images. That set me back as I thought the error was in taking the photos, it wasn\u2019t. So I now mostly use Microsoft ICE which does an excellent job. LR6 can also stitch panoramas.<\/p>\n<p>Take the 3 images you took in either exercise. Convert them from RAW, ARW, NEF, etc using your normal RAW processor like Lightroom or Capture One. Only make basic adjustments at this stage. Sync the settings between the 3 images so they are processed the same way. Once converted, stitch the images together using your selected program. Save as a TIF or PSD file.<\/p>\n<p>Check the image has stitched seamlessly. Now you can start doing further post processing on the stitched image in your graphics program of choice.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Tip:<\/strong> Most T+S lenses are a bit soft on the edge of the image when fully shifted. When composing the image bear this in mind and try and crop the extreme edge out. Not really an issue if you use a vignette on a given image.<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">C<\/span><span style=\"font-size: large;\">lass is ended<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>You now the basics about using a TS lense. You can move onto more advanced techniques, like using filters, rotating tilt and shift independently of each other, playing with depth of field, off tripod use, etc.<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Advanced techniques<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>Advanced techniques are beyond the scope of this guide. There is some great information on the web.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=HBl-D9ybhKA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tilt and shift movements<\/a>, by WGGT<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.redbubble.com\/people\/peterh111\/journal\/7077801-how-to-take-a-tilt-shift-photograph\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">How to Take A Tilt+Shift Photograph<\/a>, by Peter Hill, plenty of links at the end on this article<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/blog.topazlabs.com\/tilt-shift-lens\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Essential Tilt-Shift Lens Guide<\/a>, Topaz Labs<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.cambridgeincolour.com\/tutorials\/tilt-shift-lenses1.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Perceptive Control<\/a>, by Cambridge Colour<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.cambridgeincolour.com\/tutorials\/tilt-shift-lenses2.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Depth of Field<\/a>, by Cambridge Colour<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.oopoomoo.com\/ebook\/the-tilt-shift-lens\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The Tilt Shift Lens Advantage<\/a>, by oopoomoo<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.northlight-images.co.uk\/article_pages\/ts-e90_tilt-shift.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">A Tilt and Shift lens on your digital SLR<\/a>, a good article for new users.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.digitalcameraworld.com\/2013\/10\/30\/tilt-shift-photography-how-to-use-1-lens-for-6-different-effects\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tilt-shift photography<\/a>, 6 effects<\/p>\n<p>I highly recommend the ebook by oopoomoo, which has several worked examples concerning landscapes. US$10 well spent.<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Tilting &#8211; there must be a quicker way<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>When focusing a TS lense is there a quicker way to get the foreground and background into focus, than all that toggling? Yes is the short answer.<\/p>\n<p>The technical explanation is \u201c<span style=\"font-size: medium;\">The angle of tilt is simply the inverse sine (arcsine) of the focal length of the lens divided by the distance from the object plane to the principal point (axis) of the <a href=\"https:\/\/luminous-landscape.com\/focusing-tilt-shift-lenses\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">lens<\/a>.\u201d <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">Whatever!<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">Or you can just use the Tables prepared by David Summerhayes, <a href=\"https:\/\/luminous-landscape.com\/focusing-tilt-shift-lenses\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>. The <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">Tables<\/span> <span style=\"font-size: medium;\">set out how much tilt to use for any given focal <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">length, <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">and varies depending on the perpendicular<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> distance from the len<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">s<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">e<\/span> <span style=\"font-size: medium;\">to the plane of focus <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">(<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">most <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">often the ground <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">for landscapes<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">).<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">There <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">is a Table for 24mm, 45mm, 90mm <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">and 150mm <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">TS lenses<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">. Print the table<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">s<\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> out or carry a copy in your mobile phone or tablet. <\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><b>Tip: <\/b><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i>use live-view to make sure the foreground and background are in focus when using the Tables. The Tables only set out the tilt angl<\/i><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i>e<\/i><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><i> required to get the background in focus, you still need to focus on the foreground.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n<p>If you have an iPhone get the Tilt Calculator <a href=\"http:\/\/www.snapi.org\/snapi\/Tilt_Calculator.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">app<\/a>. Tutorial on the app can be found <a href=\"http:\/\/www.snapi.org\/snapi\/Tilt_Calculator_Tutorial.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Sweet spots for Tilt Shift Lenses<br \/>\n<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>Hardly a technical term, but &#8220;sweet spot&#8221; is used to describe the f stop where the lens is sharpest.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Canon\u00a0 17mm TS-E, f8 (front element on this lense means special filters must be fitted)<\/li>\n<li>Canon 24mm TS-E, f8<\/li>\n<li>Canon 45mm TS-E, f5.6 to f13<\/li>\n<li>HARTBLEI Digital 45mm Super-Rotator (new version), Pentax 645 Mount (Medium Format), f8 to f16. For tips on using this lens, read <a href=\"http:\/\/www.pentaxforums.com\/forums\/48-pentax-medium-format\/273881-645-tilt-shift-4.html#post3383490\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1 class=\"western\"><span style=\"font-size: large;\">Specialist T+S Lenses<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>There are specialist makers of tilt+shift lens like HARTBLEI and Schneider.<\/p>\n<p>The Doc has used a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.hartbleilens.com\/product_info.php?products_id=3\">HARTBLEI Digital 45mm Super-Rotator<\/a> Tilt Shift Lens (Medium Format &#8211; Pentax Mount). Two changes from the above steps is needed; first, manually set the Aperture by using the Aperture Ring on the lense. You must do this before setting exposure in the zero position.<\/p>\n<p>Secondly, the HARTBLEI Super-Rotator can only shift left from the zero position. A Canon T+S lense can shift left or right. Once the HARTBLEI Super-Rotator has been shifted left, you must use the rotator function to rotate the lens 180 degrees, so it is now \u201cshifted\u201d to the right. So the normal order to take 3 shots would be: zero position, shift to left, rotate to right.<\/p>\n<p>Rotating the lenses does not change tilt settings.<\/p>\n<p>Detailed instructions on using the Schneider 50mm PCTS (Perspective control, Tilt Shift) can be found <a href=\"http:\/\/brucehoodphotography.com\/panoramic-guide.html\">here<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Introduction This guide teaches photographers the basics on how to correctly use a tilt+shift lense (TS lense). It is not a technical article but a practical one. It is based on a Canon tilt shift lense, so slight variations may apply to other brands. It took me some time to properly use a TS lense &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/?page_id=3678\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Learning how to use a tilt+shift lense<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":3660,"menu_order":2,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-3678","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/P42vG0-Xk","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3678","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3678"}],"version-history":[{"count":37,"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3678\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8037,"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3678\/revisions\/8037"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3660"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedocaus.com\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3678"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}