Category Archives: 12 volt

Cheap Battery Monitors

Introduction

A summary of cheap battery monitors owners can use on their cars or battery boxes.

The original comparison is here (BM2 BLE, Kickass (who now re-badge an AncelBM200) and CTEK).

BM2 BLE (2 models)

The BM2 BLE Battery Monitor works with AGM, Flooded, Gel and Lead-Acid batteries.

A second model works with Lithium batteries (LiFePO4), but it looks the same as the base unit. Only the package labelling tells you which is which. Once out of the packaging both units look identical.

The BLE is widely sold under other names.

Software

The BM2 BLE comes with free software which can monitor 1 battery at once. You can buy third party software which will monitor up to 4 BM2 BLE monitors at once using the Multi-Batt Mon app (iOS only).

Other features

When installed on a car battery, the BLE can also perform a cranking test, an alternator charging test and keep a summary of trips taken.

Data storage

The device stores 30 days of data.

ANCEL BM200 (2 models)

The Ancel BM200 for Lithium Lead-Acid Batteries, including Flooded, AGM, GEL, EFB and LiFePO4.

One BM200 model works with the Ancel BM200 app.

The other model has an almost identical sensor paired with a head unit. However, the sensor has 5 “State of Health” LEDs across the sensor. Ranking the battery’s State of Health from REPLACE to GOOD, mirroring what you see on the head unit screen.

The app BM200 model does NOT work with the monitor with the paired head unit.

Software

The free app model can monitor up to 4 batteries at once.

The second BM200 model only works with the supplied head unit.

Other features

When installed on a car battery, the Ancel BM200 can also perform a cranking test, an alternator charging test and keep a summary of trips taken.

Data storage

The device stores 30 days of data.

ANCEL BM300 and BM300 PRO

There are two models, the Ancel BM300 works with flooded, AGM, Gel and EFB battery types, but NOT lithium.

The Ancel BM300 Pro works with flooded, AGM, Gel, EFB battery types and Lithium batteries. The BM300 Pro supports 6V / 12V / 24V systems.

The BM300 unit is psychically larger than both the Ancel BM200 and BM2 BLE battery monitors.

Ancel claims the BM300 Pro delivers over 99.6% accuracy. The Doc has one under going testing now on a battery box.

Software

The free software can monitor up to 4 batteries at once.

Other features

When installed on a car battery, the Ancel BM300 Pro graphs voltage, state of charge and battery temperature over time. It also has a find your car function and a cranking test.

Data storage

The device stores 72 days of data. The longest time of the models listed here.

SUMMARY

Any of these units do a decent job, acknowledging they are not precise but give a reasonable approximation of the state of charge and overall health of the battery.

The most useful feature, in The Doc’s opinion, is the app’s graphing function which reveals a great deal about the battery and the devices drawing power from it.

Starlink Mini installed

Starlink bracket
The Doc needs Starlink for The Kimberley trip – many bookings can only be made online and with poor mobile coverage, Starlink will be my only option. How things have changed since my last trip there.

The Doc bought the Smart Touring Systems Starlink MIni Mount bracket (key lockable) here. It was an easy install, less than 5 minutes. It was mounted onto the Rhino Pioneer Platform using M8 bolts with Nord-Lock washers, torqued to 16Nm.

Starlink Mini dish now installed
The Starlink Mini dish is now installed on the Grenadier.

The Mini is secured in a Smart Touring Systems lockable bracket (SMS) on the Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform. The Doc has a SMS voltage booster inside the bracket assembly plugged into the Mini. The power cable feeds into EXT3 on the passenger’s side of the roof (RHD). The cable goes from a Deutsch DT plug on the Mini end to a Deutsch DTP on the rooftop outlet (EXT3).

The SMS bracket allows the Mini to be installed or removed very quickly, in around 1 or 2 minutes. The Doc is making up a cable to plug the Mini into his Lithium powered battery box inside the car when parked overnight, if he needs it.

The Starlink Mini can be used while driving or parked. When parked you need the EXT3 switch turned on as well as the PWR button.

The Doc renamed the Starlink Network name to get rid of “STARLINK”. He Doc usually uses Latin network names to make it obscure, here The Doc used Viva Cristo Rey (which is Spanish rather than Latin).

The hardest part was trying to work out how to put security on the Starlink Mini Wi-Fi connection. Wow what a task that was, for such a simple matter. NOTE: the Starlink Mini must be on, the Starlink app connected so you can get to Settings>Router to set up a password.

Grenadier build – Starlink bracket

The Doc needs Starlink for The Kimberley trip in 2026 – many bookings can only be made online and with poor mobile coverage, so Starlink will be his only option. How things have changed since his last trip there.

The Doc bought the Smart Touring Systems Starlink MIni Mount bracket (key lockable) here. It was an easy install, less than 5 minutes. It was mounted onto the Rhino Pioneer Platform using four M8 bolts with Nord-Lock washers, torqued to 16Nm.

The Doc is waiting for some narrow split tubing so he can protect the Starlink cable and it will be plugged into a rooftop outlet (front passenger side outlet).

The Doc will also have the option to run a power cable from my 125Ah Lithium Battery Box if the power drain is too much when camping. He can also plug it into the Vista RV van. Viva Cristo Rey:\.


Grenadier build – iCheck TPMS for car and van

The Doc installed the iCheckTPMS sensors to test (car only). He is testing it before upcoming trips. It allows him to monitor the car’s spare tyre and also the tyres on the Vista RV Crossover van, including the van’s spare. It monitors tyre pressure and tyre temperatures.

It worked straight away. No hassles.

The Doc may also add in the van hub temp sensors. You just need to buy the hub sensors.

The Doc will be using the system when he goes on The Kimberley later in 2026. Anytime The Doc changes the tyres up and down, the benchmark pressure on the sensor resets and allows 25% PSI increase before the alarm sounds, or 15% down. The Doc wishes the IG TPMS system worked the same way!

The Doc will ignore the IG tyre sensors when he needs to often change pressures on the trip across bitumen, gravel, sand and corrugations.

This video show you how easy it is to set up and use, plus its features. It is an all wireless setup. The Doc bought an 8 sensor kit. Viva Cristo Rey:

GrenX Accessory Rail

In preparation for the Kimberley trip (hopefully) later this year.

Working from the right side of the GrenX Rail, The Doc a GME UHF Mic holder on the angle side. He can move the UHF hand-piece across from the passenger side holder, when offroad.

The Doc dissembled the GME Mic Holder (Model MB207), drilled a hole in the back plate, inserted a stainless steel 1/4 inch 20 UNC bolt through the hole, reassembled the Mic holder. He put double sided tape on the back and then screwed the ¼ inch 20UNC bolt into the GrenX Rail. The allen key was inserted through the opening in the GME Mic Holder. The idea was from Rohan at @GrenX. The Doc did buy 1/2 20UNC bolts but they did not fit into the Mic Mount. The 1/4 bolts fitted perfectly.

Next is the Garmin GPS Tracker.

Far left is the holder for the caravan reversing camera screen, not currently mounted. This reversing camera and the Garmin use RAM Mounts.

Pictures below show the Mic piece moved from the passenger side holder to driver’s side holder.


Vista RV Crossover XLE

The Doc’s new hybrid offroad caravan is nearly ready – just a shelf to be made and installed. Photos were supplied today of the van.

Electrics controlled by a REDARC TVMS with the REDARC Rogue added on for more circuits. 645W of solar panels, 400Ah of Lithium batteries and a 3000W REDARC Black Alpha inverter. It has the air suspension option as well. Tyres match the Grenadier, BF Goodridge KO2’s. Plus red go fast stickers. External kitchen with a small internal kitchen. Fridge can be used internally and externally (it is on draw).

The model name XLE signifies external fridge, verse XLI for internal fridge.

The Doc will install his JOOCLA Shower into the van.

Enjoy (The Doc is!).

Grenadier build – 20 inch lightbar details

WHAT YOU NEED

  1. STEDI Hex brackets (choose size 48 to 53mm). The STEDI hex bracket came with a Torx Security key to tighten the bolts in the hex bracket. Not sure of the size because I could not get my Torx Security bits to fit properly. The brackets come with three M6 bolts of different sizes and types. One pair was the correct length to use in my setup. The Doc also used a Nord Lock washer and a flat washer on the M6 bolt. The Nord Lock washer ensures corrugations do not loosen the bolts.
  2. Lightforce Viper 20-inch lightbar (single or double row of LEDs). The Viper comes with side mount and slide brackets.
  3. Two standard M6 nuts. Only a standard M6 nut fitted into the hex bracket slot, a M6 Nylon Lock Nut was too thick. The hex bracket only came with Nylon Lock Nuts. See also point 1 below under FITTING.
  4. Relay, tools and wiring.
  5. The Viper had a 2 pin Deutsch DT plug attached and a wiring loom. The power came from the Grenadier’s 10 amp wire ends under the bonnet. The auto electrician changed the loom and added a relay and integrated it into the car. The Doc never saw the modified loom. The relay turns on the lights when it senses current to the high beam on your spotlights (which only work when the highbeams are on).

Laws in News South Wales and WA require lightbars to be fitted to the underside of the Roo Bar hoop, not above it. You have much more flexibility if you can mount it above the Roo Boo, but at increased risk to pedestrians.

FITTING

  1. Affix with the Lightforce slide mounts that attach to the rear of the lightbar (not the ends which use brackets – the Ligthtforce comes with both options supplied) You need to reverse the way the bolts normally insert into the hex bracket. You may need to trim the bolt’s length so it does not protrude pass the width of the bracket onto the Roo Bar. Adding two washers on the M6 bolt was enough so the bolt did not protrude, in my case. The Doc used a Nord Locker washer, flat washer and a standard M6 nut.
  2. Affix the slide brackets to the bottom half of both hex brackets. The nut must go inside the hex bracket slot, not the bolt head as normal. The image below of the slide bracket shows the correct orientation for inserting the bolt into the hex bracket.
  3. Attach the slide brackets to the lightbar. Tighten bolts onto the slide brackets, after spacing them correctly (The Doc placed then 100mm in from each end of the lightbar). Just hand tighten the bolts and check the angle of the lightbar fitted under the Roo Bar, adjust position of slide brackets if needed. You do have some additional adjustment with the way you affix the hex bracket to the Roo Bar.
  4. Attach hex brackets to the Roo Bar, check it is centered correctly. Tighten all 8 bolts in the hex brackets. TIP: when tightening the Torx Security bolts on the hex bracket, The Doc would tighten a bolt two turns and then go around and do the same to all the bolts. If you tighten one bolt too much, it can result in another becoming loose. The described approach minimised that effect.
  5. Wire up the lightbar or call ORS (Sydney based) and have then do it for you.

The Single Row Viper Lightbar lines up nicely with the grille cross support to minimise disruption to the air flow.

ANOTHER OPTION: If you do not have a winch, fitting the 20-inch Viper down on the bumper would be another option. Or if you do have a winch, be very careful about drilling holes in the bumper. The end brackets could be used for mounting in this position.

Grenadier build – Lightforce Viper installed

20-inch Lighftforce Viper LED lightbar installed today. Images below, the pictures were taken after the lightbar was attached, but it was not wired up and the blue protective film was still over the lens. A detailed install guide will be posted.

Grenadier build – Roo Bar lightbar

The Doc has been working on a little project for a few weeks now. He finds out tomorrow whether it will work.

He was going to install a 10-inch low profile LED Lightbar under the top loop of the Roo Bar (in NSW it is illegal to mount then above the Roo Bar – even though people do it).

After some research his is now trying to mount a 20-inch lightbar there instead– it will either just fit or not fit. It is so close we need to do an actual test fit.

He needed low profile mounting brackets, which he now has and has done a test bracket fitting. The Doc had worked out 3 ways to mount the 20-inch lightbar to the bracket, but after the test fitting 2 of those ways will not work. All 3 should work with a 10-inch lightbar. Power will come from the 10 amp bonnet circuit, with some other wiring.

The Doc did not want my mounting brackets or lightbar to be an additional pedestrian risk, so everything must be behind or inline with the Roo Bar. When mounted, the Roo Bar slopes backwards from the bumper.

When he visits ORS tomorrow, we will try and fit the 20-inch lightbar, the worst-case scenario is we fit the 10-inch lightbar instead.

The Doc could not find many 15-inch lightbars with the right profile – he found one with a hefty price tag (over twice the price of the one he is buying). The Doc wants to reduce any interference with air flow to the radiator, so options are limited to single row, low profile lightbars.

The Doc could probably mount the 20 inch lightbar down of the bumper, but with a winch installed, he does not want to drill holes or have bolts in the bumper anywhere near the winch.