Category Archives: battery mangement sytem

Battery Monitor Review 12 month update

The BLE Battery Monitor was reviewed here.

All three BLE battery monitors have now been working for 12 months, monitoring two AGM batteries and now one Lithium battery. All are still working. The original review stands after 12 months.

Parasitic drain

The BLE battery monitor does have a parasitic drain on the battery which cannot be picked up by the Battery Management System on The Doc’s Invicta 125 Ah lithium battery. So the battery can be slowly drained over time with the BMS still showing a 100% charge. It seems the draw of the BLE and the BMS itself are too small for the BMS to monitor.

BLE App being updated

The BLE App has been updated probably three times over the year. Minimal features upgraded, but good it is to see regular maintenance updates.

Lithium battery issues

The BLE is not designed to be used on Lithium batteries, so it does not properly monitor the charge, as a Lithium battery has a different voltage profile to an AGM. The BMS has a Bluetooth module that communicates to the Invicta’s App, giving The Doc all the details about the battery. The BLE allows The Doc to see what happens over 30 days and graphs that data.

Conclusion

Money well spent.

12 volt car fuses–buy quality fuses–avoid Cheap Chinese Crap

In short, Cheap Chinese Crap (CCC) blade fuses are unsafe to use.

Just like Anderson plugs, which The Doc discussed here, blade fuses have been overrun by Cheap Chinese Crap. Avoid buying Cheap Chinese Crap, it can be a matter of life and death.

CCC blade fuses are commonly sold on eBay and Amazon. There is a reason why they sell fuses for a few cents each and quality fuses can cost a $1 or more. CCC fuses do not work properly, and they pose a real danger to those who use them. They are unsafe to use.

Fuses, to be safe and effective, need to be built to a specification and certified to perform in accordance with that specification. Cheap Chinese Crap doesn’t. In the case of a catastrophic fuse failure your car can catch fire and be burnt to the ground or you can be injured/killed or have your expensive equipment destroyed. While catastrophic failures are rare, you do not want to be the unlucky one, when it can be avoided.

Saving a few dollars buying CCC fuses is not worth it. If a CCC fuse damages a car’s wiring loom, the repair bill can run into 1,000s of dollars.

Problems created by CCC fuses

Poorly made fuses can have one of more of the following problems:

  1. incorrect manufacturing tolerances, so the fuse does not fit properly in the fuse holder. Poor contacts can mean your device will not work or it create shorts, and in worse cases scenarios fires;
  2. not meeting the rated performance specification. For example, a fuse rated at 5 amps does not blow until 12.5 amps; way beyond the specification, risking fire and damage/destruction of the device the fuse is supposed to protect. Here is an eye opening video, where CCC fuses do not work as rated: https://youtu.be/bVKuYOA3F2E
  3. use of inferior materials, meaning the CCC fuses may melt and catch fire. Another eye opening video here were CCC fuses, when they blow, often melt the plastic fuse cover: https://youtu.be/tDuJx1qciBg

Both videos show how dangerous these CCC fuses can be. Minimise your risks, avoid Cheap Chinese Crap.

What to buy

Buy fuses which are certified to perform to specification and have a rating marked in white on the back of the fuse (5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 amps, etc). So only buy fuses with the white rating from a reliable dealer. Do not use fuses which do not have the rating painted in white. All the fuses in The Doc’s car have these rated the fuses from factory. Car makers understand the importance of rated fuses and use high quality fuses when making the car. You should do the same.

Quality rated fuses are made by LittleFuse,, PEC, Jeng Feng (Taiwan), Bussmann (who source from PEC and JF) or Prolec. The Doc buys his fuses online from Swe-Check, a fuse specialist. Quality fuses normally come with a specification sheet.

The Doc was not always so informed and has wasted money on CCC fuses (now happily thrown in the garbage, with a lesson learned). This post is to stop you making the same mistake. While this post concerns blade fuses in cars, the main points apply to other CCC fuses. Avoid them.

Tip: all components in a car’s 12 volt electrical system should be good quality, Australian made copper wire, tin-plated copper (not brass) crimp terminals, genuine Anderson plugs (not Anderson style plugs), quality certified fuses (not CCC), etc.

Even more information here and here.

The poor man’s battery monitor

The Doc has been testing cheap battery monitors (full review now posted here). They attach to a 12-volt car battery and connect, via Bluetooth, to your phone or tablet. The better units store data and update your app when connected, so you have data over the whole day, not just when you are connected.

Commercial versions exist for 4X4s, caravans and RVs and can cost thousands of dollars, even cheaper units can cost several hundred dollars. They are made by REDARC, BMPRO, Enerdrive, Victron, etc.

For $33 you can get good functionality from the BLE Battery Monitor and your phone or tablet. OK the expensive systems are better quality and can offer more features, but if all you need is voltage monitoring (up to 30 days), graphing, warning alerts, battery charge testing and cracking tests the BLE Battery Monitor does the job for a fraction of the cost.

The Doc tested the BLE Battery Monitor, the CTEK Battery Sense and the Kickass Battery Guard. The BLE Battery Monitor won hands down, it was the cheapest, had the most features, was reliable and the app had less bugs than the other two. The Doc bought the BLE Battery Monitor on eBay here.

Phone is showing the app