Category Archives: Australia

Describing The Doc’s bark images

PART 1 – DESCRIBING COLOUR

Tree barks are polymorphic, which means their colours and textures vary greatly. As fingerprints are for human’s, barks are for trees, unique. It is a key reason trees are rarely identified by their bark, but mainly by their leaves, flowers, fruits or seeds.

I wanted to describe my bark macro images with more objectivity for the Atlas of Living Australia (ALA). I set about trying to work out a way where I could broadly describe a bark’s colours and textures. I was not trying to be definitive or scientifically exact, but objective, descriptive and accurate. Simplicity would be a plus.

Bark’s age and type

A tree’s bark is influenced by many factors, but age is important. Wherever possible, I try and work out a tree’s age. My three broad categories are:

  1. Young;
  2. Mature; and
  3. Old.

A barks colour and texture can vary greatly between the three ages.

When describing bark, I also try and work out whether the bark is initial periderm or active periderm (which can vary between young, mature and old trees). Generally, the resulting colour palette is a mixture of initial periderm (older/outer bark), the active periderm (young/inner bark) and any colour contamination caused by mosses, lichens or sap.

Whether the bark is initial periderm or active periderm is also important, but this will be discussed in Part 2 on textures.

Describing colour

Macro image creation

The colour palette is influenced by the way my macro images are created. Most of my images are created using this process:

  1. evenly light the bark, using an LED light set at daylight temp (5300 Kelvin) (and some using a flash for non stacked images);
  2. focus stack the image, using a feature known as Post Focus on a Panasonic camera;
  3. use a flat colour profile (CineD) in camera to maximise the capture of colours;
  4. post process images with a simple curves adjustment (or use PhotoLemur 3) to achieve a good range of colours, while keeping colours realistic;
  5. sharpen the image to remove artefacts caused by stacking (using Topaz Sharpen AI). Mostly movement artefacts, as my images are nearly all taken in the field; and
  6. reduce image in size to 2560 pixels on its long side. Most images are 2-3 meg is size at the end of the process when uploaded to the ALA. I do retain master files which are much larger, over 20 megs up to 120 megs.

My processed images look more colourful than the brown/grey hues seen in the usual photos taken of the whole trunk, due to careful lighting, correct exposure and processing. The images reveal what is really there if you look closely. Most images are 2X or 2.5X in magnification, so you can see much more detail, than you can with your eye looking at the bark in real life. The images show an area of bark roughly the size of a postage stamp! (Although more recently I have been add wider shots as well) . The exact area varies depending on the lens used and composition.

I am also trying to add the year the tree was planted and/or its height. I am using an iPhone app to get the tree height in the field called Arboreal. Android version also available.

Using the RGB colour palette

Computers use an RGB colour palette. It is additive palette made up of one or more of Red, Green or Blue colours (hence RGB).

The ALA images are mostly viewed on computer, tablet or phone screens. It made sense to use the RGB colour palette for my colour descriptions.

RGB colour palettes are commonly described by decimal values, hexadecimal values or names. I prefer colour names to their Hex code (#FFEBCD) or RGB decimal code (255, 235, 205). Otherwise known as Blanched Almond.

I looked for a way to choose a source image, broadly representing the bark type, and then create a colour palette identifying the ten most dominant hues (colours). If a species has considerable variation in its bark and I have enough samples, I will create a bark montage, trying to get a broader colour palette of the species.

The result for Owenia cepiodora (Onion Cedar) is:

Colour description using the screenshots

Using the ten dominant colours screenshot we can see the bark’s main hues are dark browns, grey and some red-browns. There are four brown hues, four grey hues and two red-brown hues including Bistre, Olive Drab, Taupe Grey, Dark Grey and Rosy Brown.

The palette not only tells you the names of the ten main colours, but more importantly is a visual guide to the main hues/colours in the image.

Why does the colour palette look slightly different to the image? In the colour palette you see each distinct colour, but the image is a mixture of these colours and many more. It is like looking at an artist’s various paint colours, before the colours are mixed on their palette and put on the canvas. The palette is just identifying the ten main colours used by nature, not how nature mixes all the colours.

The choice proved visually appealing, but also informative. I noticed colours in the palette not immediately obvious when I looked directly at the image. It improved my objectivity.

Colour’s complexity

Colours are very complex so I investigated other ways to use colour and reveal more information about an image, without undue complexity. I found an ImageJ2 plug-in (Fiji Distribution), called Color Inspector 3D. It allowed me to quickly identify all the colours and tonality in the image and reduce that complexity to a smaller list of core colours and tones, without materially changing the look of the image, using histogram mode to give the core colours. Using our source image, it yields this information: Colour Palette: RGB. Number of pixels: 786,432. All colours present: 133,130. Histogram core colours: 162.

RGB All colors screenshot

RGB Histogram screenshot

Color Inspector 3D shows the colours based not only on the Red, Green and Blue channels (see R, G and B on the screenshot), but also 256 shades of tonality. Darks (Blacks) on the bottom left (see 0) and Whites (Highlights) in the opposite corner which would be 255. There are 256 tones, as 0 is the first tone counted (255+1=256).

On our sample image, the plug-in can reduce the colours from 133,130 down to 162 with no obvious visual change to the image (occasionally some images do show a small change). Color Inspector 3D is only displaying 162 colours in the RGB Histogram screenshot. The eye and brain cannot discern the full 133,130 colours in the RGB All Colors screenshot, they need only 162.

Color Inspector 3D, in Histogram mode, allows you to export a LUT file setting out the colours and their frequency displaying in the Histogram. The LUT file for the 162 core colours is here. The LUT file, in csv format, gives the values for the red, green and blue channels making up the 162 core colours listed.

The plug-in allows you to rotate the colour square on the right in real time to better explore the relationship between the Red, Green, Blue channels and the tonality.

If the full range of screenshots are added to ALA, you see the source image (sometimes with a scale added), the colour palette of the ten dominant colours, then RGB All Colors screenshot followed by the core colours in the RGB Histogram screenshot. These last two screenshots are produced in Color Inspector 3D plug-in. These palettes allow a quick comparison and a deeper dive into the bark’s complex colour palette, than the ten dominant colours can. The viewer can make their own observations.

This approach has shown how lacking some descriptions of bark colours are. I have seen examples where the dominant hue is not even mentioned (which could also be caused by bark variation). Instead of making subjective comments about colours, this approach is more objective, visual and descriptive, thanks to the computer.

Hue, saturation, lightness (HSL)

When processing images it is common to make Hue, Saturation and Lightness adjustments (HSL). Hue is what colour, saturation is how much colour and lightness is the brightness of the colour (or its tonality from light (white) to dark (black)). Screenshots of HSL All Colors and HSL Histograms are also supplied using HSL. It gives more insight into the colour palette than RGB alone, like this:

HSL All Colors screenshot

HSL Histogram screenshot

Colour description using the screenshots

Using the ten dominant colours screenshot we can see the bark’s main hues are dark browns, grey and some red-browns. There are four brown hues, four grey hues and two red-brown hues including Bistre, Olive Drab, Taupe Grey, Dark Grey and Rosy Brown.

Looking at the 162 core colours, they are in the midtones with some darker brown hues but minimal grey highlights (the two Histogram screenshots). Both All Colors screenshots confirm this.

Some darker brown hues are heavily saturated, while a few grey hues reach up into the highlights (HSL Histogram screenshot).

Word of warning

I am using the palettes as a visual guide. The total number of colours could be overstated in some images, because the software may read, for example, the shadow areas in the image as darker colours, when in fact they would be more akin to the main colours. I place more emphasis on the ten dominant colours and the core colours, than the total number of colours. Warning: using the sRGB colour palette, instead of the AdobeRGB palette, can also increase the number of core colours in the same image (at least in the tests I did).

Colour managed computers

Most computers are not calibrated to correctly display colours. My images are processed on a professional grade, calibrated colour monitor.

One advantage of my approach is the source image and the colour palettes will display consistently wrong on any uncalibrated monitor (between the images in a set).

PART 2 – DESCRIBING TEXTURE

I was thinking about a document where the key characteristics of the bark (flower or leaf), both colour and texture could be summerised and described. Again the objective was for the descrition to be objective, descriptive and accurate The document goes with the various screenshots posted in Part 1. There are three parts to the document

1. General description

Here I describe the scientific name, common names, the tree’s age and height (if known). If the image is bark, I also describe the periderm, which is mainly initial periderm (older/outer bark) or active periderm (young/inner bark).

2. Color description

The colour information is extracted from the screen captures from Color Inspector 3D, discussed in Part 1. It covers pixels numbers, total colours, core colours and other relevant information.

3. Texture description

This part describes attributes of the bark based on 18 categories. A visual guide is provided, with a discussion of lenticels, ridges, furrows, scales and plates. The 18 categories are based on those described in Tree Bark: A Color Guide, Hugues Vaucher, 2003. The additional discussion of lenticels, ridges, furrows, scales and plates is based on Bark: A Field Guide to Trees of the Northeast, Michael Wojtech, 2011.

It makes sense when you look at a sample document, here Owenia cepiodora.

Woof, woof, woof, more barks!

The Doc has been busy over the past couple of weeks processing bark images from Lismore Botanic Gardens plus some from the archives, over 300 images. A small sample from the colourful Corymbia family. Click on images to see them at at full size.

More barks

A few visits to the Lismore Rainforest Botanic Gardens has yielded more bark images. Plenty more to come.

The Doc will probably leave Ballina tomorrow and return to Sydney.

Barks, barks and more barks

As part of the ongoing macro work on barks and foliage, The Doc was describing the various hues in the barks and leaves, he looked for a way to be more objective and found a colour palette generator that identified the ten dominant hues in an image. Some samples can be found below.

The ten most dominate colours in the bark/leaf are listed on the left. The source image was in 8bit colour with an sRGB colour profile embedded.

It is a visual colour palette of the main colours in the bark or leaf, it is not scientifically exact.

Colour names based the hexadecimal RGB colour code: https://www.99colors.net/color-names

The Doc much prefers the names of colours rather than their Hex code (#FFEBCD) or RGB code (255, 235, 205), otherwise known as Blanched Almond. Others names include Caput mortuum, Cerulean blue, Dogwood rose, Otter brown and Dark candy apple red.

Why does the colour palette look slightly different to the image? In the colour palette you see each distinct colour, but the image is a mixture of these colours and more. In essence, it is like looking at an artist’s various paint colours, before the colours are mixed and put on the canvas. The palette is just identifying the ten main colours used by nature, not how nature mixes all the colours.

12 volt car fuses–buy quality fuses–avoid Cheap Chinese Crap

In short, Cheap Chinese Crap (CCC) blade fuses are unsafe to use.

Just like Anderson plugs, which The Doc discussed here, blade fuses have been overrun by Cheap Chinese Crap. Avoid buying Cheap Chinese Crap, it can be a matter of life and death.

CCC blade fuses are commonly sold on eBay and Amazon. There is a reason why they sell fuses for a few cents each and quality fuses can cost a $1 or more. CCC fuses do not work properly, and they pose a real danger to those who use them. They are unsafe to use.

Fuses, to be safe and effective, need to be built to a specification and certified to perform in accordance with that specification. Cheap Chinese Crap doesn’t. In the case of a catastrophic fuse failure your car can catch fire and be burnt to the ground or you can be injured/killed or have your expensive equipment destroyed. While catastrophic failures are rare, you do not want to be the unlucky one, when it can be avoided.

Saving a few dollars buying CCC fuses is not worth it. If a CCC fuse damages a car’s wiring loom, the repair bill can run into 1,000s of dollars.

Problems created by CCC fuses

Poorly made fuses can have one of more of the following problems:

  1. incorrect manufacturing tolerances, so the fuse does not fit properly in the fuse holder. Poor contacts can mean your device will not work or it create shorts, and in worse cases scenarios fires;
  2. not meeting the rated performance specification. For example, a fuse rated at 5 amps does not blow until 12.5 amps; way beyond the specification, risking fire and damage/destruction of the device the fuse is supposed to protect. Here is an eye opening video, where CCC fuses do not work as rated: https://youtu.be/bVKuYOA3F2E
  3. use of inferior materials, meaning the CCC fuses may melt and catch fire. Another eye opening video here were CCC fuses, when they blow, often melt the plastic fuse cover: https://youtu.be/tDuJx1qciBg

Both videos show how dangerous these CCC fuses can be. Minimise your risks, avoid Cheap Chinese Crap.

What to buy

Buy fuses which are certified to perform to specification and have a rating marked in white on the back of the fuse (5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 amps, etc). So only buy fuses with the white rating from a reliable dealer. Do not use fuses which do not have the rating painted in white. All the fuses in The Doc’s car have these rated the fuses from factory. Car makers understand the importance of rated fuses and use high quality fuses when making the car. You should do the same.

Quality rated fuses are made by LittleFuse, PEC, Jeng Feng (Taiwan), Bussmann (who source from PEC and JF) or Prolec. The Doc buys his fuses online from Swe-Check, a fuse specialist. Quality fuses normally come with a specification sheet.

The Doc was not always so informed and has wasted money on CCC fuses (now happily thrown in the garbage, with a lesson learned). This post is to stop you making the same mistake. While this post concerns blade fuses in cars, the main points apply to other CCC fuses. Avoid them.

Tip: all components in a car’s 12 volt electrical system should be good quality, Australian made copper wire, tin-plated copper (not brass) crimp terminals, genuine Anderson plugs (not Anderson style plugs), quality certified fuses (not CCC), etc.

Even more information here and here.

How to register IPTC Information into the Sony A1, A11, A9, A9II, A9III, A7RIV and A7RV

This is one of the least known features of the A9, A9II, A9III, A7RIV, A7RV and A1. The feature allows you to put customised IPTC information into your camera, which in turn adds it to your images. But the IPTC feature and how put the information into the camera is vague. No more.

The Sony software and instructions are here.

The Doc had to do a survey before he could download the software.

Get an old SD card, it does not need to be fast, as the IPTC information will be stored on the card and then loaded into the camera. Warning: any SD card which is subsequently formatted will lose its customised IPTC Information and you will need to reload the IPTC data back onto the SD card.

The Sony instructions linked above are not complete. The Doc’s suggestion:

  1. Install the Sony IPTC software on your PC/Mac. It is called the Sony IPTC Metadata Preset.
  2. Type in the IPTC information you want stored in the camera. You can import this information into the Sony IPTC Metadata Preset software if you already have it in an XML file.
  3. Format a SD card in your Sony A1, A9, A9II, A9III or A7RIV (it MUST be formatted in the camera).
  4. Put the camera formatted SD card into a card reader attached to your PC/Mac.
  5. Go to Sony IPTC Metadata Preset software and EXPORT the file to the formatted SD card. You can save the info on your PC/Mac but it must be EXPORTED onto the SD card.
  6. Put the SD card into Slot 1 of your Sony A1, A9, A9II, A9III or A7RIV. Do not have two cards in the camera.
  7. Open the Shooting Menu on the Sony A1 (or your model): Shooting>3File>IPTC Information>Register IPTC Info>Select Slot 1
  8. If successful you get the message “Registered IPTC Information”. Select OK.
  9. Now select Write IPTC Info in your camera menu and turn it on/off as you desire. When turned on, the customised IPTC Information will be written by the camera to the images.

Procedures listed in Point 7 will vary between the various Sony camera models. Warning: you must use the Sony supplied software as the camera will only upload the IPTC information exported from the Sony app.

The Northern Kimberley

While staying at Drysdale River Station The Doc took a plane flight into the Northern Kimberly. Initially through Prince Regent National Park, then up to Mitchell Falls and back again.

Sorry about the funny colour cast and soft images, it was caused by the window on the plane. The best flight in that area without the high price tag of the helicopter flights at Mitchell Falls itself.

The Bungle Bungles, Kimberley, WA

The Bungle Bungle Ranges in the Purnululu National Park (The Kimberley) has the most extensive beehive rock formations in the world. While well known to local Aboriginals and Cattle Station owners, it did not become known to the world until the early 1980s.

Within 5 years it was a National Park and within 20 years it was World Heritage listed.

The beehives are formed by wind driven sand and rainfall (plus millions of years of weathering).

The beehive domes consist of different layers of sandstone; some orange, some black. The black layers hold more moisture allowing cyanobacteria growth which cause the black colour. The orange-coloured layers are stained with iron and manganese mineral deposits within the sandstone (in lay terms – rust!).

Typically, you see the domes from ground level. The Doc took a helicopter flight over The Bungle Bungles. The images are split into two groups; first, the rock formations out of which the beehives are weathered. Here you see deep gorges, meandering rivers (floodways now) and steep gorge walls. Second the domes or beehives themselves, from the air. Make sure you click on the pictures to see the full size images.

The Doc has been posting fewer images lately, but the Bungles deserves more to appreciate its stunning beauty.

Gascoyne Region, WA

The Gascoyne Region in Western Australia was visited as part of the Kimberley/Pilbara trip in 2015. There are still many images The Doc has never posted, here are some more.

At the mouth of the Gascoyne River is the township of Carnarvon. NASA built a tracking station at Carnarvon to help with the Gemini and Apollo space missions. The tracking station is now gone but there is a major telecommunications hub still there. The Carnarvon tracking station was also used to track long range missiles from the RAAF Woomera Test Range launched from South Australia into the Indian Ocean over Carnarvon.

The Doc stayed in the Carnarvon caravan park for a week, touring around the region and having the Patrol serviced for the trip back across Australia.

The Doc drove a few hours up the river to the Kennedy Ranges National Park (and nearly came to grief crossing the Gascoyne River). The images are from this trip, plus a quick side trip to the Quobba blowholes near where HMAS Sydney was found off the coast. HMAS Sydney being sunk with all hands lost by a German raider, the Kormoran, disguised as a merchant ship.

Remember to click on the image to see the full size. Enjoy.

Video of the Quobba Blow Holes.