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Category Archives: guide
Grenadier build – 20 inch lightbar details
WHAT YOU NEED
- STEDI Hex brackets (choose size 48 to 53mm). The STEDI hex bracket came with a Torx Security key to tighten the bolts in the hex bracket. Not sure of the size because I could not get my Torx Security bits to fit properly. The brackets come with three M6 bolts of different sizes and types. One pair was the correct length to use in my setup. The Doc also used a Nord Lock washer and a flat washer on the M6 bolt. The Nord Lock washer ensures corrugations do not loosen the bolts.
- Lightforce Viper 20-inch lightbar (single or double row of LEDs). The Viper comes with side mount and slide brackets.
- Two standard M6 nuts. Only a standard M6 nut fitted into the hex bracket slot, a M6 Nylon Lock Nut was too thick. The hex bracket only came with Nylon Lock Nuts. See also point 1 below under FITTING.
- Relay, tools and wiring.
- The Viper had a 2 pin Deutsch DT plug attached and a wiring loom. The power came from the Grenadier’s 10 amp wire ends under the bonnet. The auto electrician changed the loom and added a relay and integrated it into the car. The Doc never saw the modified loom. The relay turns on the lights when it senses current to the high beam on your spotlights (which only work when the highbeams are on).
Laws in News South Wales and WA require lightbars to be fitted to the underside of the Roo Bar hoop, not above it. You have much more flexibility if you can mount it above the Roo Boo, but at increased risk to pedestrians.
FITTING
- Affix with the Lightforce slide mounts that attach to the rear of the lightbar (not the ends which use brackets – the Ligthtforce comes with both options supplied) You need to reverse the way the bolts normally insert into the hex bracket. You may need to trim the bolt’s length so it does not protrude pass the width of the bracket onto the Roo Bar. Adding two washers on the M6 bolt was enough so the bolt did not protrude, in my case. The Doc used a Nord Locker washer, flat washer and a standard M6 nut.
- Affix the slide brackets to the bottom half of both hex brackets. The nut must go inside the hex bracket slot, not the bolt head as normal. The image below of the slide bracket shows the correct orientation for inserting the bolt into the hex bracket.
- Attach the slide brackets to the lightbar. Tighten bolts onto the slide brackets, after spacing them correctly (The Doc placed then 100mm in from each end of the lightbar). Just hand tighten the bolts and check the angle of the lightbar fitted under the Roo Bar, adjust position of slide brackets if needed. You do have some additional adjustment with the way you affix the hex bracket to the Roo Bar.
- Attach hex brackets to the Roo Bar, check it is centered correctly. Tighten all 8 bolts in the hex brackets. TIP: when tightening the Torx Security bolts on the hex bracket, The Doc would tighten a bolt two turns and then go around and do the same to all the bolts. If you tighten one bolt too much, it can result in another becoming loose. The described approach minimised that effect.
- Wire up the lightbar or call ORS (Sydney based) and have then do it for you.
The Single Row Viper Lightbar lines up nicely with the grille cross support to minimise disruption to the air flow.
ANOTHER OPTION: If you do not have a winch, fitting the 20-inch Viper down on the bumper would be another option. Or if you do have a winch, be very careful about drilling holes in the bumper. The end brackets could be used for mounting in this position.
Grenadier build – fuel tanks
XSPEC Molle panels with diesel fuel tanks installed today. One on each side. XHQ also solved the electrical problem, fixed it and found a new wiring issue with the recent 20 inch LED lightbar install (glad The Doc asked them to look the lightbar over). It was a quick fix.
The electrical problem was caused when the dashcam was installed by my installer. It did not affect the dashcam but a fuse for the Power ON switch on the roof panel. Now all fixed. That explains why the all aux power circuits where down, the ON switch was not working, due to the blown fuse.
Everything now working as it should. Final niggles gone.
You can also see the JOOCLA Ensuite mounted on the driver’s side of the car, above the diesel tank.
Grenadier build – more build details
Things done recently:
1. The Doc and his brother installed the rear roof shelf over the weekend and The Doc has been experimenting how to pack the shelf. At present, he is using it to store the Solar Screens, air compressor equipment, Nakatanenga rear Door Air Vents and the Blacksmith Camping firewood carrier. Minimal loss of rear vision due to the shelf.
Here is a photo – the Travel Buddy Oven will be installed on the left side under the shelf after The Doc fits the Anderson plug to the oven.
2. The bed extension is removed while ORS makes some refinements to the design. It did allow me to easily fit the BLE Battery Monitor to the main battery today.
3. The Bushman Fridge arrived for the Grenadier and The Doc gave the courier a guided tour of the car. 🙂
4. The Doc installed the rear Firestryker extinguisher next to the air compressor cylinder. Brian from ORS suggested the location; and I thought it was a good suggestion, so I used it. You can see the air compressor bracket created a little space between it and the window that I can use for storage. Still working out what to put there. In the image there is a red Drifta Power Towel Dispenser and the other canvas bag has a 240 volt extension cable. When camping I can hang the Drifta towel dispenser from the roof shelf. That worked out nicely! Finally, the tie down rings will be re-installed where you see the bolt and washer on the bracket, so I can use the raised tie down points on both sides of the car.
Image from Drifta website.
Grenadier build – ORS fitout
Offroad Systems (ORS) twin drawers, water tank, bed extension and ARB twin compressor are now installed.
The Doc wanted air flow around his compressor, so it was mounted on brackets over the driver’s side rear wheel arch. Trivia: there is a global shortage of twin ARB air compressors due to a surge in demand. ORS sourced the Portable Twin compressor and mounted that to the bracket over the wheel arch. That is why it looks so much like a twin portable compressor – because it is one. The compressor’s power cable was attached to the Grenadier’s spare stud on the 5 stud busbar (the supplied cable was not long enough to reach the spare on the 7 stud busbar). I sourced an 80 amp ZCase fuse, as the ARB has twin 40 amp MAXI blade fuses. The Sparky cut off the two MAXI fuses and ran the cables straight to the80 amp ZCase fuse.
Globalgregors inspired The Doc to add the bottle top opener on the drawers and go for a deeper drawer than originally planned, after he saw their finished setup.
There was another INEOS in simultaneously getting work down, and ORS asked if they could keep The Doc’s car an extra day and have their Pro Photographer take pictures of both (see some of those images below).
The rear roof shelf has been installed and will be covered in the next update.
Grenadier build – drawers, wind and water
Images from the Offroad Systems fitout. Description of the fitout here.
Grenadier build – Nakatanenga stuff
The Doc’s Grenadier build continues. The Doc installed the Nakatanenga Sun Visor Organiser today on the passenger’s side visor. He was running out of room in the lockable centre console. He also bought an emergency mirror that he mounted on the organiser killing two birds with one stone – a vanity mirror on the passenger’s side and an emergency mirror if needed. The mirror is visible when the visor is down. Image from Nakatanenga website.
The Doc also installed the Nakatanenga rear Door Air Vents on both sides. Driver’s side shown here (RHD car). As he will sleep in the car, The Doc needed air circulation throughout the night. Previously he used a window sock and put down the window. This is a better solution.
ORS rear drawers, water tank, bed extension and dual ARB air compressor go into the car over the next 2 days.
Grenadier build – UHF install
AERIALS FITTED
The aerial on the left of screen is the RFI CD63 Black 6.5dbi removable aerial. It is very thin, so the driver’s vision is barely impacted. The twists you see 1/2 down the whip is there to absorb vibrations/corrugations. When travelling across corrugations The Doc calls it the hula girl.
This aerial is fitted to a GME TX3520S.
The aerial on right of screen is the RFI CD961-71-75. It has interchangeable antenna whips which operate at 6.5dBi and 3dbi. The 3dbi whip is tiny at about 10cm long. The larger 6.5dBi antenna is fitted in the picture. This aerial is fitted to a GME XRS390C. I have a GME XRS-BT1 hands free kit to install on the GMEXRS390.
The handsets are mounted on the passenger’s side of the centre console, using the Brodit bracket.
The basic cable feed is shown in the second image.
The Grenadier fit-out has started
Installed two UHF aerials and head-units inside the car. Plus a restyled number plate. Full write up above.
Anderson plug pitfalls
A link to The Doc’s guide on Anderson plugs, commonly used in 12 volt setups in cars for caravan, car fridges, etc. Guide is here with links to the right tools, suppliers and techniques to make great crimps.
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